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Pure, Precious and Rare

The power, honor and respect of a Lucknawi Chikankari can be traced back from blue-blooded royals to today's Bollywood royalty. A true, hand-made Bibi-Jaan creation is never hurried or rushed. A collective of artisans, known for their butterfly fingers, craft every piece of clothing through many a month, even seasons. It isn't unheard of to acquire one over the course of a year. Each creation becoming an heirloom by the time you get one.

The making of a legend

Every Bibi-Jaan original is created the time-honored way, the human touch felt at every stage. First, raw cotton is hand-rolled and spun into ultra-fine threads. Then, motifs of imaginary botany, opulent arches and friezes, are carved into wooden blocks and hand-presssed on to gossamer-like cotton and silk fabrics. Finally, the exquisite needlework of artisans makes the dying art intricate, impossible stitches come alive on these rich, worthy garments. Each piece will be admired, adored and revered for years.

The gold standard of stitches

The real sophistication of a Bibi-Jaan original is in the use of raw thread and in the complexity of stitches. The act of recreating, preserving and conserving some of these almost extinct, impossible motifs remains in the hands of a few remarkable women, who make this legendary art form accessible. These stitches exemplify authentic Chikankari.

JAALI

The rarest one. This mesh-like stitch is inspired by royal architecture, and gives Chikankari its signature look. It is created by separating the strands of the warp and weft and tightening it to hold it in position. Now an almost extinct skill, known only to a handful of artisans.

This stitch takes 2 weeks + 5 Artisans

Bakhiya

This is the truest form of Chikankari. A pattern is woven below, with the needle taking in minute darts on the surface. The top outline along with the “shadow-like” background creates a very distinct motif.

This stitch takes 2 weeks + 3 Artisans

Murri

No look is complete without it. This is a rice-shaped raised stitch, embroidered as an outline to a Bukhia pattern. Formed as a minute French knot, this detailed stitch remains a challenge for even skilled artisans.

This stitch takes 2 weeks + 3 Artisans

Phanda

This circular, grain-shaped stitch is proof of karigari or craftsmanship. Tiny, raised dots form details of a leaf or a petal. This stitch offers presence and extra definition to the garment.

This stitch takes 2 weeks + 3 Artisans